I will attempt to keep the action recorded daily but who knows what will happen on the road to Nashville and back.
As it turned out most of the stopovers couldn't provide internet access and I have been left to complete this task on returning to Tassie.
Day 1 New Orleans Saturday 8th Sept.
Arrived in the French Quarter of the Big Easy at midnight and we all, except for Pat, headed straight down to Bourbon Street. It was in full party mode. The street is closed to traffic after sunset and the party moves with drunken abandon from one bar or blues club to the next.
Day 2 New Orleans 9th Sept
Today was spent on a couple of local tours. The first on the paddle steamer NATCHEZ. Photo's will follow when I get time. The trip down the river and back was our first intro to the devastation left in the wake off Hurricane Katrina. Our second tour by bus that afternoon highlighted just what the locals had to contend with during and in the aftermath. It is quite humbling to be constantly thanked for visiting their city when is
still suffering from the lack of funding to rebuild and replace all the infrastructure. We passed through parts of the suburbs where damaged houses were still boarded up or completely missing. In one street there was only one house reoccupied in the midst of the devastation. But the rebuilding is happening and the spirit of the people is an absolute inspiration. They are friendlier than any other population in any other city I have visited here in the US.
If you ever get the chance to come here you would not be sorry by any stretch of the imagination. The hospitality was overwhelming, friendly people with a generousity that exceeded expectations.Hearing and seeing first hand about the effects of Hurricane Katrina was an emotional experience. Confronted by how little the Bush government has achieved in the two years since the disaster is very distressing for a visitor to New Orleans and must be incomprehensible to the local population.
Unlike the rest of the USA, Louisiana has parishes instead of counties. In one parish the population prior to Katrina was 250,000 it is now only 75,000. The driver of the Gray Line coach which we toured with told us the comany had 63 full time driver/guides before Katrina and now only employed 11 part time. Yet still they put of a happy face and get on with life. I was impressed with their (the population) remarkable spirit and hope that their future is brighter.
Visited an old slave plantation today. What a fascinating history Louisiana has. Unlike many of the other southern states of the US who used slaves, Louisiana was very liberal. They actually had a system of freeing the slaves and never split families. At one time the white slave owners were outnumbered by colored slave owners.Day 5 - New Orleans 12th Sept.
On the bus to Baton Rouge today and will pick up the bikes after Bike Night at the local Harley Shop. By the time we arrived at BR Hurricane Humberto was in full frontal attack on Galveston just down the road in Texas. We decided to give the Bike night at the Harley Shop the flick. They have a dry bike night and strictly no BYO.
We stayed at the Best Western Chateau Louisiana and had a few beers and sent out for Chinese and as it was Pat's and my 31st wedding anniversary a bottle of Champers.
Our group of intrepid bikers arose to the leading edge of Hurricane Humberto descending on Baton Rouge. But our plans were made from the other side of the the world and no piss weak storm was going to slow our progress. After breakfast we headed out to the Harley Shop to meet Greg our rental manager. By lunch time we had our bikes and had signed our children and grandchildren's lives over to HD rentals. The most dangerous moment was departing the car park. Seven enthusiastic riders and several adventurous pillion passengers spent nervous minutes negotiating the crossing of the highway in hurricane force wind and rain. Remember most of the group have never driven in the USA before.As we got away from Baton Rouge the rain eased and we had a good run up a beautiful country road. A lunch stop a Centerville broke the trip but also cost us time as the hurricane caught up as we we cutting across a beautiful motorcycling road called Liberty Road. This road was made for cruisers and we were really starting to get into the groove as the rain started again. Traffic was light and speed limit was 55mph.
We pulled over and got into our wet weather gear again and just in the nick of time. The approach into Natchez was confusing and we lost our way during a huge downpour that dropped visibility to less than 25 metres. We pulled into a factory parking lot and tried to get out of the worst of it. The Manager John Rand opened his factory to us and we put the bikes inside and took refuge in his front office.
Seven bikes, 11 wet and dripping Aussies were made so welcome and coffee was provided to boot. As soon as the rain eased and the viz improved we jumped on the bikes and headed for our accommodation. We were lost again and John saw us on his way home and rescued us again. Southern hospitality is alive and well. What a guy, thanks John. Come visit us sometime so we can offer you some Southern Tassie hospitality. Humberto dumped between 5 and 12 inches (125mm to 300mm) of rain on Louisiana and Mississippi. Flooded roads and downed powerlines cutting off 13,000 homes during the deluge. We were in the thick of it. We were all rather glad to get off the road but were all sporting huge grins and swapping stories of near disaster.We stayed in two different B & B's both of them offering wonderful famous Southern hospitality. Thanks Mimi and John from Wensell House. That night we celebrated Cindy's birthday at the Magnolia Grill.
Day 7 - Natchez to Vicksburg 14th Sept.
Half the team were on the road from Natchez early today and crossing the Mississippi River we traveled up Highway 65 on the western side of the river. Our day was first class with great riding weather, 28C with clear blue sky. I had looked at maps before departing and finally found our way onto a great little back road that followed the Mississippi. At the small river township of St Joseph we picked up rolls, cheese, sliced turkey and drinks for lunch by Lake Bruin just north of town. The road, after we had eaten and cooled of under the shady trees, was fantastic.
We hardly saw any traffic and sat on 100 to 120 kph. We had almost made our destination when Ed ten Broeke's bike dropped it's oil on the road. Seems like some thing had come off the hwy and penetrated his sump.
The roadside assist network swung into effect and we left him and his wife Tess to wait while we found our accommodation and unloaded our gear. Then Mal, Scott and myself returned to pick up their gear and ferry them back to the accommodation.
The accommodation was awesome, we sat on the balcony and watched the sun set over the Mississippi River and enjoyed a couple or ten coldies. Some of the wonderful girls put together a great salad that was padded out with local takeaway pizza, chicken and steak.
Ed's bike was was replaced with a Heritage Softtail from Jackson this morning. Saint's Kevin and Sue were the rescue team and we are beginning to realise that this trip would be impossible without a backup vehicle. 
We went back onto the Natchez Trace to find our way to the French Camp. Low and behold we found most of the group and stopped in Kosiousko and were able to arrive the the Camp as a group.
This accommodation was very country style and our hosts Deborah and Keith made us very welcome. They had even prepared a meal for us so after more to eat and several beers we fell into our beds.Day 9 - 14th Sept. French Camp to Tupelo
Next morning breakfast was huge and as usual there were eggs, bacon, sausage, grits and biscuits. Then it was back on the road again. We lost several of the group before we even left the camp. The weather was perfect and we headed off up the back roads adjacent to the Trace.
Most of us were on the road for the religious experience of a life time, a visit to Gracelands, the home of the King. But as we were starting to find, sign posting in the US leaves a lot to be desired. I was leading and missed the turn to Elvis Presley Blvd. and ended up crossing the Mississippi into Arkansas. Well at least we got to visit another state not included on our itinerary. When in doubt ask a policeman, he directed us to the visitor centre where Pat ran in and got a map of Memphis and off we roared again. But do you think we could find the right road, not one sign post and
A quick trip to Corinth where we were staying the night in a B & B called the Generals Quarters We were fed a true southern dinner as would have been served to the officers during the civil war and then entertained by the 52nd Tennessee Regimental Band. Captain Miller the band master taught us to do the Virginia Reel and several other civil war dances. This was a fantastic night with plenty of drinking and laughing by our fearless bikers.
Day 11 . Corinth to Avaleen Springs 16th Sept
We arrived at our destination to find nobody about and were feeling rather dissatisfied by this as the afternoon shadows lengthened the owner Roxanne finally arrived with the key and we were able to choose our rooms and unpack our panniers. Scott, Mal, Ed and I then did a grog run to the nearby gas station/general store. Luckily for us before we had a chance to crack a stubby Roxanne informed us that the Tennessee was a zero alcohol limit for all drivers. As we had to go to Hohenwald for dinner only the girls got to wash the dust from their throats. As you can well imagine we( the blokes) were keen to get to town, get fed and get back early for a couple of beers. It was 11miles to Hohenwald and we ate at a great little steak and rib house called the Junkyard Dog. Best steak I'd had in the US.
Day 11 . Avaleen Springs to Franklin ( Nashville) 17th Sept
Once again we had great roads and we all arrived at the Amish info centre as planned. The Amish are very camera shy and we had to stop at a farm that sold soap to get a close look at the way they live. The women made themselves scarce and although the childern were curious they wouldn't speak to us. The Amish farmer who took our money was quite suprised when we explained where we came from. He was even more surprised when he discover that Australia was overseas and we had "Travelled in one of them there airplanes"
We then headed down to Lawrenceburg for lunch in Davey Crockett National Park. As most Aussies would know Davey Crockett was a real Frontiersman who became a legend. He is revered in his home town with a statue in the main street and his home a museum. We chose the park on the outskirts of town to get away from the traffic and enjoy a break under a shady tree.Day 12 & 13 . Franklin & Nashville 18 & 19th Sept.
Nashville like New Orleans is a place to party. Most of us rested up when we arrived the first night deciding that we would head into town the next day and spend the whole day and evening seeing the sights and visiting the bars etc. Getting into Nashville from Franklin was about $60US by cab as there was no public transport and as we were going in to party we were leaving the Harley's under lock and key at the motel.
Six of us booked into the Wildhorse Saloon to see a well know country swing band "Asleep at the Wheel" and they we fantastic. As we were planning a big day on the bikes back to Tupelo the following day most of us were in our beds by midnight. Some who will only be called Bruce(the body guard) and Russell (the actor) to protect their identities were to live up to their evil aussie images and pay the price by having monster hangovers for the long hot ride down the Trace to Tupelo not long after they got to bed the next day.THE NATCHEZ TRACE
Stretching from the Mississippi River in Natchez through the Shoals area in Alabama and across the Tennessee Valley to Nashville, the Old Trace was first trod by buffalo, then American Indians. In the early 1800's, it was the main return route for Ohio Valley traders who, rather than fight the Mississippi currents, sold their flatboats for the value of their timber in Natchez and walked home via the Old Trace. By the mid-1820's, steamboats made the dangerous trek unnecessary, and the Old Trace disappeared into the trees.
Today, the 444-mile National Scenic Byway and All-American Road has emerged as one of America's most important examples of our nation's natural and cultural heritage. Administered by the National Park Service, the road's non-commercial environment coupled with a wide variety of historic sites, wayside exhibits and beautiful venues make it a memorable destination for an unhurried trip that both reveals and explains a unique time in our country's history.
Recreation
Visitors today will discover richly scenic areas, numerous hiking trails, picnic sites, campgrounds and water recreation areas. Hiking on the Parkway presents both challenges and rewards. Over 60 miles of National Scenic Trail and 28 different hiking and self-guiding trails are open year-round. RVing on the parkway offers a great ride, and motorcycling and biking are popular with hundreds of miles of scenic, winding road between Natchez and Nashville.
The return journey was to take us 3 days with stops at Tupelo, Canton and St Francisville. Many of the group were not keen to stay on the Trace, although it is beautiful and the road excellent the speed limit is very low 40 & 50 mph with radar enforcement by National Park Rangers and high fines. We left as a group for a photo opportunity at the top end of this great parkway. After the night in Nashville even those who didn't want the serenity of the Trace seemed unable to find an alternative.
The Suburban proved its worth in ferrying Gary Williams to retriev
e his bike from the Harley Dealership in Tuscumbia in Alabama, where it had been for repairs to the gear selectors since we left Corinth on our way north. Most of us stayed on the Trace until hunger got the better of us and we headed into Cherokee and found a little road side diner. Great food, lovely locals, 70 cents for a coffee refills for free, $3.50 for a great hot chicken sandwich and the best sugar free chocolate pie I've ever tasted. After lunch it was back on the Trace until it was time to exit for Tupelo again.
Tony, Chris, Pat and I took the opportunity to check out the old Trace and even had the opportunity to ride down about 1 km of it. It doesn't take a lot of imagination to envisage the past visitors to these woods. Around every cornor are historical sites and monuments to all who had travelled before us. Spaniards, French, English, Indian and civil war heros had all passed this way.
Saturday 22nd September Tupelo to Canton
Next morning we choose to jump onto the Trace to get clear of Tupelo. About 22 miles south we took the exit to Houston (Mississippi not Texas) and travelled over some faster roads that paralleled the Trace. Our ride plan was to cross back to the east of the Trace for a coffee stop at Maben. Our arrival in this community was one of discomfort. The community looked forlorn and the only place that was opened for a coffee looked like a fortress and very dirty so we stayed on our bikes and continued to Mathiston where we found a clean gas station with coffee. We continued south through Ackerman and Ethel passing the turn off to French Camp where we had stayed the previous week. Again we intersected the Trace and with rain looming we jumped back onto it and made fair time until I realised I was on reserve.
We had caught up with Tony, Chris, Gary and Sue and Kev in the Suburban as they had stayed on the Parkway all day. After some discussion and a chat to a local who stopped Pat was installed in the van while Dave and Marita followed me back off the Trace to a servo. I was lucky as it was only about a 15 minute detour and we caught up with the group who were stopped at Pearl River and talking to another group of bikers who were heading North.
This road is very popular and the comraderie with the other bikes fantastic. Although the speed limit is low commercial vehicles are prohibited which makes it a very safe route if you're not in a hurry.
The rain had cleared and Pat jumped back on with me and we set off looking for the Hwy 43 exit to Canton, our next stopover.
Sunday 23rd September 2nd last day on the road Canton to St Francisville
Everybody realised that today was our last real day on the road and although we would have a 38 mile run from our stop over at Butler Greenwood plantation to the Baton Rouge Harley dealership it would be mostly in morning traffic in a large city. Mal, Ed, Scott and I decided to take one more adventure into the back blocks of Mississippi and set off on the Trace to clear the city of Jackson. We split up into two groups Scott and Cindy with Pat and I with the aim of all meeting in Port Gibson for lunch.
The run today was going to be a bit over 200miles and we were expecting it to stay hot and fine. We exited the Trace just south of the 80mile marker and headed into the unknown. It was relatively easy going, very little traffic and straight roads. We met a group of bikers, all Harleys and a trike at the lunch stop who suggested a couple of nice roads but alas we knew that we had to keep pushing south and not waste any time getting lost. But I had my way and we crossed over the Mississippi river into Louisiana again at Natchez and followed the rivers west bank. The country here was flat and hot and the road in many place was built on the levee. Scott and I had a ball and although the road was not the best surface we had travelled over it was free of traffic and had some great sweeping bends that allowed us to travel at higher than usual speeds. I did get reprimanded by my dear spouse on a number of occassions and seriously considered submitting to her request to stop and let her off.
Our journey took us passed cotton fields and workers cottages that had changed little from the days of slavery in appearance. Over time the Mississippi has had many changes of course and we passed huge sections of the old river that had immense locks and dams all under the control of the US Army Corp of Engineers, who are responsible for the maintenance of all the dams, locks and levees along and around the Mississippi River.
The plan was to cross back over to our destination via the ferry between New Roads and St. Francisville. Breaking the afternoon ride had been our plan but the road was very exposed, temperature around 35C and apart from a couple of very brief stops for water and Scott a fag, we didn't find suitable habitation or a shop until we reach Morganza.
Then it was the last leg to the ferry and on to Butler Greenwood. It was our lucky day as the ferry charges are only applicable from east to west and we were travelling from west to east so we saved ourselves one whole dollar per bike.
A helpful local provided directions to the plantation and within half an hour we were wending our way up the Oak lined driveway of Butler Greenwood.
This was the most impressive accommodation of the trip. The plantation has been in the Butler family since it was established in the 1700's. Anne Butler, the present owner, is only too happy to give tours of the house to her B&B guests.
After our long hot ride the first order of business was a cold beer and a swim in the pool that adjoined Dave, Marita and Gary W's cottage, the Pool Pavillon.
Pat and I were the lucky occupants of the Dovecote, Cindy and Scott, Chase's Cottage, Tony and Chris the Gazebo, Sue and Kev the Pond House, Mal, Annie, Ed and Tess shared the Old Kitchen.
All were airconditioned and self contained. Our king size bed was the best bed I've ever slept in. If you are interested in this B&B have a look at http://www.butlergreenwood.com/.
Anne Butler is an interesting woman who has written several books, including the story of her attempted murder by her ex-husband.
We had the best barbeque and plenty of drink to celebrate our journey before exhaustion sent us to our respective cottages.
Monday 24th The final leg
As was only fitting for our return to Baton Rouge the sky was overcast and rain forecast. We decided that we should follow Sue and Kev and arrive as a group back at the Harley Dealership. Kev led us through the morning traffic in the pouring rain and although it was a stop start affair we managed to all cruise into the dealership as a group. All agreeing that the hardest part of the whole trip was crossing the oncoming two lanes of traffic outside the Harley shop.
After officially handing back the bikes we made our final preparations, repacking bags, changing from riding attire to travelling clothes, purchasing Harley souveniers and headed to the airport and flights home. What a trip, great friends, fantastic roads, mostly good bikes, great variety of accommodation and food.
There is now a book published about our trip you can preview and purchase a copy
Tales of Tears and Dragons Coming in September 2008 Cancelled due to injury maybe 2009
After the success of our trip last September we are going back to do another leg.
The plan will be to fly to Nashville and spend the first 3 nights there enjoying the music and like. Then a two week road trip taking in the great country roads in Northern Mississippi, Tennessee and Kentucky, The Land Between Lakes, Mamoth Cave region, across to ride the Tail of the Dragon http://www.dealsgap.com/ in North Carolina, then on the 20th September participating in the Trail of Tears http://www.trailoftears-remembrance.org/ ride from Chattanooga to Florence.
Then back to Nashville before flying home.
Cost will be around $7K for riders and about $5K for pillion passengers. Include are airfares from Melbourne or Sydney to Nashville and back, Accommodation, breakfast and late model Harleys. Watch this site and the trip plan will develop and grow before your eyes.
Feel free to contact me and offer suggestions on gmyors@bigpond.net.au
